Wednesday, July 14, 2010

CoffeeShop-Hop, Episode 1

Almost every single day people ask me where the best coffee spots are in our fair city. What a loaded question right? First of all, my opinion on this matter changes on a daily basis. Second, most of the shops in town serving coffee are in some way my clients so picking a favorite would be uncouth at best. Third, there are so many factors that decide what the "best" place for coffee might be, I really don't think it is possible, as things stand, to single out one shop as superior over all the rest. As my favorite food writer says, "I would like to play the favorites game but I'm not very good at it". All that said, I do visit a lot of coffee shops and I do drink a lot of coffee; I believe it bears reason that these experiences should be shared. I'll call this recurring series CoffeeShop-Hop; here goes!

Yesterday I visited three coffee spots here in Richmond. I ordered the very same thing in each shop as is my custom. I am, admittedly, very habitual in my coffee shop orders so I will try, for the sake of diversity, to mix it up a little for these posts. However since this is the first installment it is fitting that I stick with my standard order; a simple double espresso. For the record, I generally order espresso because it is the highest iteration of coffee extraction. It requires the most skill and generally exposes the full quality (or otherwise) potential of the bean and the roast. This was my experience.

Ellwood Thompson Cafe

This was actually my third stop on the tour but I'd like to go in order of impression. Admittedly, ET Cafe is one of my favorite shops in town for a variety of reasons, however, in this case my espresso was not the best I've had there. It was still a wonderful espresso, don't get me wrong, but I know its potential and it didn't quite live up. I seek two main characteristics in espresso: crema and balance. I can appreciate most flavors as long as they're balanced. That sounds very simple but the levels of perfection involved in creating balance are almost endless (an article for another time). My espresso at ET Cafe had lovely crema but it was out of balance; the acidity was high and the body was weak giving me a sharp, palate biting sensation that I found mildly off-putting. This is odd for this shop and having watched the extraction I chock it up to barista error. In an ideal world, she should have dumped that shot and pulled another for me. I was still happy with the experience over all and I highly recommend the shop.

Cafe Caturra Midlothian

Cafe Caturra in Midlothian surprised me yesterday. I am usually prepared for a very dark, smokey espresso at all of the Caturra locations because their roast profile (yes, they roast on site) is a very deep French or Italian style. Often I find this smokiness tends to drown out all flavor of the bean itself which is a particular style of espresso from which I tend to shy away. This particular shot, albeit very smokey, had the most amazing floral notes at the front of the palate. These notes transitioned into deep strawberry tones and ended with the smokiness. I was very pleasantly surprised. The aftertaste, however, bothered me because it was a lingering charcoal flavor in the back of my throat. Had that aftertaste not presented itself I would have listed this as the top espresso of the day. I must also note, my barista was a jerk. Baristas: Don't be jerks--your job is to make people happy, not uncomfortable. Otherwise the experience was lovely.

GlobeHopper CoffeeHouse & Lounge

Globehopper, you took the proverbial cake. This espresso experience (which was my first stop) was all around the best of the day. The espresso was perfectly extracted, balanced, had lovely crema and the presentation was beautiful. I watched the barista attentively prepare and extract the shot while she made conversation to boot. The atmosphere was beautiful and I wanted to stay for more. This, folks, is how a coffee experience should go so I highly recommend paying them a visit soon.

All three of these shops did a great job and I would recommend them all to budding espressophiles. I will certainly be visiting them all again soon. It was clear to me that the ownership, management and staff in all of these locations are actively concerned about the quality of their product, the atmosphere of their stores and the overall quality of their customers' experience. Good job guys!

6 comments:

  1. Thanks Stephen, we are very pleased to serve Toscano Espresso from our roasters in Durham, Counter Culture Coffee. Toscano is roasted in the classic central Italian "dulce" style and is a favorite of mine.

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  2. I'd be interested to hear what the Caturra barista did to make you so uncomfortable....I find that experience alone to be an important one...no need to be condescending, I'm there to give you my business!

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  3. I think I found the best/easiest/most thorough way to keep track of your visits on a nice map.

    -Make a new Google Map & make it public
    -Put your locations you have visited on the map by opening your foursquare checkins feed KML in google maps by pasting the link into the search from here: http://foursquare.com/feeds/
    -In the description of the saved points, put address and phone number
    -Maybe follow with hits vs misses index for quick judgement?
    -Follow with links to blog posts which talk about the shop
    -Post link to map and put widget on your blog to map view (click link button then customize to generate HTML)

    Voila!

    Then I can follow the map on google and access it via Android for quick access, too.

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  4. Joe
    Thanks for your comment. The Caturra Barista, whom I do not know for the record, didn't do anything overtly horrible; but having been on his side of the counter for many years, I felt what he didn't do right. I'll see if I can put the intangibles into text...

    It started with the cashier; I ordered a "double espresso" and she looked at me like I had tentacles growing out of my ears. Then she said "huh?" as if I had ordered human brain with fava beans. I had to repeat myself and she put the order in. I paid and she looked at me and said, you must be driving somewhere and need to wake up... no dear, I just like espresso. Anyway, the man who made my espresso sort of brashly asked me if it was to go to which i replied "no" because I try not to drink espresso out of paper cups because I swear you can taste the paper. This seemed to annoy him but he complied. He began to pull the espresso into shot glasses as I watched and I nicely asked "sir, please could you pull the espresso directly into the demitasse?" He responded "I mean, I guess, if thats what you want" and then he proceeded to scoff at me and melodramatically swish the demitasse from side to side forcing it to dribble crema all over the sides of the cup. I've probably pulled ten thousand shots of espresso on that same machine with the same demitasse and I know that you don't have to spill. He then sort of dropped the cup on the counter and walked away. I'm not sure how my presence and preference irked him so badly, but it was totally unnecessary and rather ruined the experience for me. On the flip side, however, Cafe Caturra Midlothian has the cheapest double espresso in town.

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  5. Since you seem to hit every shop in town what would be cool is a guide with rankings on categories such as: Quality of Espresso, Food Offerings, Atmosphere, Service. Would be kind of neat to see how everyone shakes out. Could be a good debate.

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  6. Richard
    This is in the works. Getting some help working out a twitter/foursquare integration on the blog that will tie to a google doc of experience rankings. Thanks!

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